Amanda says I’m a Hawaii snob.  Whenever she suggests a trip, I’m apt to shrug and say, “Meh.”

It’s not that I don’t find Hawaii beautiful, it’s just that I hate all those damn tourists. And for my money, I’d rather go another place in this great big world, that’s not crawling with vapid, obnoxious, beet red families clutching their Maui Gold coupon booklets.

When a wedding on Maui last week wrenched me out of my Hawaiian stubbornness, Amanda decided it was going to be her opportunity to reintroduce me to one of the gems the 50^th state has to offer.

I first traveled Maui’s famed “Hana Highway” when I was an awkward 13-year-old.  I remember it was a narrow winding road (barely big enough for 2 cars in many spots) on a beautiful part of the island, but not much else.  Maybe that’s because I was consigned to the back seat where carsickness took a toll (reading a book is not recommended on this highway).  Maybe it’s because my parents were so focused on getting to Hana that we didn’t stop much along the way.  Maybe it’s because I was just a sulky teenager determined to dislike anything my parents thought was fabulous.

This time however, we were going to do it Married to Adventure style: getting off the beaten path and seeking those hidden treasures you can find en route.  And by the end of our three-day foray into Maui’s lush corner, I had to admit things were a lot better than I’d remembered.

Here’s how I would recommend exploring the Hana Highway if you’re going for a visit.

Travel Against the Grain

Strangely, most visitors drive the loop in the same direction.  They leave Pa’ia in the morning, reach Hana around midday, and return to Kahului at the end of the day.  That means that a huge pack of tourists (including throngs of road-hogging mini busses) travel en masse, stopping at the sights at the same time and piling up behind one another as they travel.

We drove the reverse.  Before reaching the lush rainy side of the Hana road, we traversed the rain shadow region of the Haleakala volcano on the south end of the island.

While the windward side of the island can receive upwards of 400 inches of rain per year, this leeward portion receives a mere 10 inches.  It’s also where the most recent lava flows reached the sea, forming a barren landscape in many places.  The distinction between the two parts of the island is practically a straight line – one minute you’re driving through a stark Mordor landscape, and the next you feel like you’re in the garden of Eden.

The Ulupalaka Ranch is a good place to snag a brisket or a burger.  Across the street the Tedeschi Winery has a small but fascinating room dedicated to the restoration efforts of Hawaii’s native dry forest trees (which were decimated when outsiders started visiting Hawaii), and the photos depicting the early ranching days on Maui.

Especially interesting are the old photos of how they drove cattle into the surf, tied them to rowboats and hoisted them into ships waiting just offshore.

Stay Along the Way

Driving the Hana Highway loop can take a full day.  It’s sensory overload to do it all in one go – especially if you have kids with you.  By the end, your mind is numb, and all you want to do is drive straight for more than two seconds.

We recommend staying in Hana, or better yet, stay at a place called Hale Mano which is about 30 minutes south of Hana.  One of the most creative places we’ve ever seen, it’s a loose collection of yurts, cottages and hand built dwellings hewn straight from the jungle.

The owner/creator spent decades crafting the property along with friends, artists and gardeners.  It features an open-air kitchen perched on a cliff side overlooking the ocean (where we spotted a sea turtle and a breaching whale), and a cuddle-friendly cat named stripes.

At every turn, you’ll spot artistic touches hidden throughout the property – a statue, a carving, a door imported from the far east.  Wander the lush gardens and pluck papaya or star fruit to eat with your breakfast, and don’t forget to visit the grave of Charles Lindbergh who happens to be buried adjacent to the property.

Ask the Locals

You could follow the guidebooks to the most popular overlooks and beaches along the highway, but better yet, make friends with a local and find out the secret spots they like to visit.  That’s how we discovered the amphitheater grotto (that’s what we call it – I’m not sure if it has an actual name), which is a secluded sweet spot hidden inside Haleakala National Park.

We promised not to post directions on the internet, but needless to say, it involved sneaking off the main trail to Waimouku Falls, wading (and sometimes swimming) up a side river that was filled with floating guava fruit.  Almost an hour later we reached a lava flow that has been frozen in time, forming a pool hemmed in by impossibly high walls and saturated with climbing plants and mosses.  We had the place to ourselves and swam beneath the dripping cliffs listening to our whoops and splashes as they echoed off the walls.

By all means don’t miss the 400-foot Waimouku Falls, by the way – they’re stunning and well worth the 1.8 mile hike which passes through impressive bamboo thickets that rattle and clack in the wind, a huge banyan tree and more awe inspiring pools and vistas than you can count.

Stop to Smell the Roses

Roses don’t grow along the highway, but mango trees do.  Stop to forage some of the fallen fruit that litter the roadway.  Closer to Hana, many banana bread stands claim to be the best on the island – why not sample them all and decide for yourself?

Don’t make the mistake overly focused drivers do and skip the botanic gardens or a detour to Ke’anae village to witness the surging waves.  The point is, if you’re so goal oriented to finish the loop in one day, you’ll miss the best parts – the little detours and side stops that make the Hana Highway special.

One of the best detours can be reached from Hana itself – it’s a place called the red sand beach and it requires a short (but sketchy) cliff side hike.  There you’ll find a small crescent of red gravely sand with a swimming spot protected by a barrier of rocks.  Bring your snorkel gear and chase the impressively large reef fish and schools of needlefish that populate the bay.  If you stay in Hana, go early in the morning to beat the crowds.

Finally, remember, the joy is in the journey, and by taking it slow and going against the flow, you stand a good chance of finding your own little corner of paradise without the throngs of other visitors to annoy you.

There are too many things to do in a single visit.  Pick and choose some of the best, and save the rest for your next trip.  If it sounds like I’m sold on going back, you might be right.

Perhaps Amanda has convinced me I shouldn’t be such a Hawaii snob after all.