Checking out the ski-in yurt at Homestake Lodge, MT
After two days of driving we were ready to stretch our legs. But driving through Montana in the winter (when it’s snowing sideways and temps hover in the mid-teens) that’s easier said than done.
With a tiny bit of research, we learned that there was a community cross-country ski area just off the road about seven miles from downtown Missoula. Better yet, it was free.
We’ve only been serious about Nordic skiing for a few years, but our new favorite sport is already paying huge dividends. In frozen winter states like Montana, XC ski opportunities can be found atop nearly every mountain pass and major population center.
Like snowshoes, once you own your gear, the door for enjoying the outdoors is thrown wide open. And like snowshoeing, it’s strikingly cheap.
Once we discovered how easy it was to pull off the road and exercise for a few hours, sniffing out new XC territory practically became a must on each day of our recent road trip.
Here are a few of the spots we found between Washington State and Yellowstone. Passionate skiers could take a week or two and design an entire trip around cross-country skiing. Or you could do like we did – simply pull over whenever you get sick of driving.
Plain, WA
A trail winds through Mountain Springs Lodge in Plain, WA
We can’t start this list without a shout out to our hometown of Plain (about half way between Leavenworth, WA and Stevens Pass). With 24 km of flat terrain (and a few steeper pitches) this is quintessential rural mountain town skiing winding through pasture, lodges and aspen groves. Rent gear at Plain Hardware.
Mt. Spokane, WA
This is a multi-sport community area about an hour from downtown Spokane. It offers downhill skiing, snowshoeing, tubing and Nordic. 25 km of trails groomed for classic and skate skiing. Parking pass $20.
Lookout Pass, MT/ID
On the border of Idaho and Montana, this high mountain pass offers free XC trails (part of which double as snowmobile routes). There are two great features to this locale: it’s about one minute off the I-90 freeway, and it’s free. Starting at the parking area, it’s a long gradual downhill glide that cruises around the alpine ski hill. The trail then splits off into wooded trails.
Eight inches of new snow made this part of the trail heavy sledding so we didn’t get very far on the classic trails, but the creek is lovely.
Pattee Canyon, MT
Just seven miles from downtown Missoula, MT these trails meander through a campground and climb a nearby ridge (if you’re a decent skier). Another free location, the 10 km of groomed track are managed by the Missoula Nordic Ski Club.
Homestake Lodge, MT
Skiing on the Continental Divide at 6,000 feet, the snow is like powdered sugar spread over a valley floor by Willy Wonka himself.
Rustic cabins are strung along a hillside just steps from a network of trails. The whole place feels magical – a playground to roam and explore. Beetle kill is hard on the trees, but the silver lining is open glades where XC skiers can glide to their heart’s content.
By spending the night, you can get first tracks and we put in almost 3 hours of skiing before anyone else showed up. There’s a ski-in yurt and groomed trails that cruise around small knobs along Moose Creek.
On a cart trail (it’s narrow so classic skiers only) we passed through groves and little bumps highlighted by massive boulders to lend interest to the terrain.
The narrow cart trail is perfect for classic skiing
A cozy lodge awaits after a hard day of skiing
Owners Chris and Mandy built the facility from scratch starting 10 years ago, and it now features several cabins, a ski shop, rentals, lessons, a cozy lodge with crackling wood fireplace with a lunch of crepes and hot soup.
You can ski here even if you don’t spend the night. On Thursday nights they offer lighted ski runs.
Crosscut, MT
A short drive from Bozeman (near Bridger Bowl ski resort) this facility is exotic winteriness at it’s finest. It’s home to your typical groomed corduroy racing trails, and it’s where the US Paralympic biathlon team trains.
Our favorite part of Crosscut was the miles of narrow trails (classic only) winding through a forest with little ups and downs, ins and outs. It’s simple to choose one of the named loops and stay on it, or jump around between trails and get lost.
During our visit the wind was howling, so we ducked into the trees to find a still oasis within the bluster, with three inches of fresh cold smoke blown across or path. It was so fluffy that your skis sank below for seconds at a time, yet the packed layers below kept us afloat and we skimmed and bombed down little shoots cutting first tracks and howling hysterically.
Shooting my magic ski pole gun on the biathlon range
Rendezvous Ski Trails, MT
Just outside Yellowstone NP in the town of West Yellowstone, Rendezvous is another famous facility that hosts racing competitions and has casual skiing for visitors. Although a big snowstorm hit the day we visited and forced us to bail on skiing here, it’s a popular spot for serious XC competitors. Features 35 km winding through lodgepole pine and open meadow on National Forest land.
Yellowstone National Park, WY
On winter snowcoach and snowmobile tours within Yellowstone, some tour operators give you time to XC ski around some of the geothermal features.
While our particular tour didn’t give us the option, we certainly wished we’d brought our skis. During a 2-hour lunch break at Old Faithful, we saw dozens of skiers exploring the geyser-filled hillside. It’s a good way to get away from the crowds and find the freedom to roam.
